Monthly Archives: June 2011

Running ham-mok on the Amazon

“With my head I love you and with my heart I respect you,” slurs Gabriel, fixing me with a slightly perturbing stare and insisting I take a slug from his near-empty bottle of whisky. “For you,” he adds, thrusting the … Continue reading

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Tropical charm in Belém

The two mature ladies sitting at the table in front of me dissolve again into scratchy cackles of laughter as they order their third large bottle of cold beer and blow large billows of smoke out from a long drag … Continue reading

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Hunting down waterfalls

The sight of a clapped-out minibus coming into view through the sunset brings temporary relief… …The view of it whizzing past, without so much as a feathering tease of the brakes, brings frustration. “I think we are waiting on the … Continue reading

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Six hours in a Brazilian hospital

I threw a smile at the stubbly, dark-skinned guy perched next to me on my hospital bed. He was clearly not a boomerang lover – nothing came back. Then the handcuffs caught my eye,  the metal catching the little available light in … Continue reading

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Coffee on the Carajás line

Having done Brazil’s planes and automobiles, Phil and I are intrigued to give the trains a go. Squinting in the harsh 6am morning light at Anjo da Guarda station, we hand over £10 each for a ticket entitling us to … Continue reading

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The incredi-bull parties keeping tradition alive

Once upon a time, within the dry, hot plains of an inland farm in northeast Brazil, there was a beautiful ox – the most beautiful in all the country. Wracked with food cravings in the midst of her pregnancy, a … Continue reading

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Flip-flopping through the Brazilian Sahara

The wrinkly-eyed, leathery-skinned old man sucks back a large dollop of phlegm and expertly spits it far out the side of the 4×4 into the searing midday sun. Fellow passengers tut and shake their heads as the silence is again … Continue reading

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