Monthly Archives: January 2012

“Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty…”

It is 5.45am in a dusty bus terminal somewhere near the Chile / Peru border. We are the only gringos in town. Trying to reawaken drowsy, sleep-deprived senses after a shaky overnight journey across the Atacama I order a couple … Continue reading

Posted in Arica, Chile, Peru, Tacna | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Dune running in the dark at the driest desert on Earth

“It is now dark, time for you to run full speed down the side of this 150-metre high sand dune. Go.” At first I thought our guide was joking. He wasn’t. So, after necking a Pisco Sour, Sophie and I launch … Continue reading

Posted in Chile, San Pedro de Atacama | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Zig-zagging through the vineyards of Mendoza…

“Rich aromas of pine and oak with hints of treacle and cinnamon gently coming through to caress and tickle the back of one’s throat,” salivates the pretentious Swiss woman.

Posted in Tacuarembó, Words of wisdom (teeth) | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Bikes and booze in Bariloche

On a quiet road with a stunning backdrop there can be no better mode of transport than two wheels. Situated on the Argentina/Chile border it is easy to understand why Che Guevara once dreamed about settling down in Bariloche next … Continue reading

Posted in Argentina, Bariloche | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

A poetic trip up Route 40

Years spent working outdoors in the glare of the Patagonian summer sun and braving icy winter gales have given the elderly man’s wrinkled skin a deep burnished caramel tan. Doffing his black grandpa cap in my direction, he eases himself … Continue reading

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The Hands of Time

It’s a spooky sight. The coloured handprints creep out from the darkness and upwards, along a large gallery of rock, as if trying to claw their way out of history. We have driven 40 minutes outside of the small, lakeside town … Continue reading

Posted in Argentina, cueva de las manos, Los Antiguos | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Travelling lesson 264: Never hire hiking boots

“Do you want to try them out around town a little bit before you head off?” says the shop assistant. I decline the offer, assuming, as always, that everything will be okay. Unfortunately being a generally optimistic person isn’t always … Continue reading

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